OSHA Announces Three Month Phase-In for Residential Construction Fall Protection

The U.S. Department of Labor's Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) today announced a three month phase-in period to allow residential construction employers to come into compliance with the agency's new directive to provide residential construction workers with fall protection.

The three month phase-in period runs June 16 - September 15, 2011. During this time, if the employer is in full compliance with the old directive (STD 03-00-001), OSHA will not issue citations, but will instead issue a hazard alert letter informing the employer of the feasible methods they can use to comply with OSHA's fall protection standard or implement a written fall protection plan. If the employer's practices do not meet the requirements set in the old directive, OSHA will issue appropriate citations.

If an employer fails to implement the fall protection measures outlined in a hazard alert letter, and during a subsequent inspection of one of the employer's workplaces OSHA finds violations involving the same hazards, the Area Office shall issue appropriate citations.

The new directive, Compliance Guidance for Residential Construction (STD 03-11-002), a detailed description of the phase-in policy, a presentation and other guidance materials about requirements for protecting workers from falls are available at http://www.osha.gov/doc/residential_fall_protection.html.

A Safety and Health Topics Web page, which provides a list of references to help employers identify fall hazards and possible solutions for eliminating such hazards, is available at http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/fallprotection/construction.html

OSHA's On-Site Consultation Program offers free and confidential advice to small and medium-sized businesses in all states across the country, with priority given to high-hazard worksites. For more information, visit http://www.osha.gov/dcsp/smallbusiness/consult.html.

Under the Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970, employers are responsible for providing safe and healthful workplaces for their employees. OSHA's role is to assure these conditions for America's working men and women by setting and enforcing standards, and providing training, education and assistance. For more information, visit http://www.osha.gov/.

Using this sales goal template, College City Design-Build’s salespeople build their own year by projecting reachable targets and charting progress. The individual sales plan takes into consideration the salesperson’s capacity, ambition, and desire for income, so the template drives results, says Bjorn Freudenthal, the Lakeville, Minn., company’s vice president of marketing and sales.
Each salesperson is given the same template with a different number of bids, leads, and project types. The template is divided up by month, quarter, and by number of projects and type of project.
Although goals are set at the beginning of every year, Freudenthal meets with each salesperson every two weeks to review leads, bids, and jobs sold and to review sales goals and year-to-date results.
Freudenthal, who developed the template with a local supplier, Charlie Bradburn, the sales manager at Automated Building Components’ millworks division, says it allows salespeople to be more strategic about their performance, which “leads to company buy-in ... . We have people who [see] themselves as owners and manage this form as an owner would ... a P&L.”

---

Small Bites
The budgeted sales for this individual are $1.3 million. For the first quarter, $325,000 is his sales goal. As of January he had reached $215,000, but he still had February and March to hit the $325,000 mark. He was just 33.8% behind his quarterly goal.
Sales Strategy
Some salespeople lean toward certain types of projects and have an easier time selling those. “But if you say that you want to sell more kitchens,” Freudenthal asks his sales team, “What actions are you taking to do so? Taking workshops, going after prospects, striking up relationships with showroom reps?” This is a way for salespeople to look at their own sales more strategically.
Goal-Oriented
Freudenthal and each sales rep review the document to see if the salesperson is on track and if activity goals and volumes are on target. “If we’re not,” Freudenthal says, “we ask why and [look at] what obstacles are in the way and how can we get to the desired results.”
Make Your Margins
This is your company’s average closed margin, which you put in. After the contract is executed and the project is built, that closing margin is tracked, and that’s the number on the sales template for a particular salesperson. The goal is to have the closing margin be the same as (or better than) the pre-construction margin.
Which Path?
“D/B” is for those design/ build jobs that follow College City Design-Build’s 12-step system. (Small jobs have a lead designer and don’t follow the D/B process.) These numbers are used for tracking.
Suggested Follow-Up
These cover goals and objectives and how best to attain them.

http://www.storeforparts.com/

Major Overhaul: Address Weaknesses in Your Business

Mike Majors was stuck. Back in 2004, Majors Home Improvement, in Milton, Fla., had produced an annual revenue of around $1.2 million each year for several years, but Majors wanted to grow the business. Since he wore all the hats — sales, marketing, scheduling, production, human resources — as well as lead the company, he couldn’t dedicate the time to make the sales happen. Then, a series of hurricanes forced him to make dramatic decisions.

“Because of the hurricane damage, leads were starting to come in fast, but I couldn’t handle them because I was handling everything,” he says. “I had to make a change.”

Know Your Limitations

Majors decided to add staff. First he identified his own weaknesses: marketing and selling. “I could close sales but that was ... because my name was on the company,” he says. “If I was serious about growth, I needed good salespeople.” He was determined that once he hired good people he would maintain the revenue needed to keep them.

“I never ran help-wanted ads because I don’t want people who are looking for work; I want people who are successful in their current position,” Majors says. He spread the word, and a mutual acquaintance introduced him to Jonathan Wells, then working in a local advertising agency. With an MBA and years of experience in direct-response marketing, Wells turned out to be a great fit.

Next, Majors focused on sales. Again, mutual friends told him about Chuck Mepham, another MBA who had proven his sales success in years with Sears. Today he is Majors Home Improvement’s sales manager.

Let Go

In 2005, the company grew to $3.2 million and both new team members earned significant compensation. Now that the hurricanes are a thing of the past, volume has dropped but is significantly higher than before Wells and Mepham joined the team.

It wasn’t easy for Majors to hand over control of two major areas of the business. “It was difficult to give the responsibility,” he says, “but I think that the fact we were so busy and I had so much to focus on forced me to let go.”

Majors still keeps his finger on the pulse of the company with daily lead, sales, and production reports, and his key managers have earned his confidence. “Now, while they may run some things past me, I trust their judgment and know that they are better at their jobs than I ever was. This confidence lets me focus on other important aspects of the business.”

New Law Will Save Big Bucks for Small Businesses

A bill was sent to President Obama’s desk yesterday that repeals a small part of his own healthcare legislation. However, if it becomes law, it will make life a little easier for remodelers, contractors, and any other small business that uses its fair share of vendors.

By a vote of 87 to 12, the Senate approved the Small Business Paperwork Mandate Elimination Act of 2011 on April 5. The law repeals a burdensome tax paperwork requirement that was part of the Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act approved last year. This would have mandated that starting next year businesses would be required to file a 1099 for every vendor that provided more than $600 in services or goods throughout the course of a year.

The annual $600 limit was for all vendors so contractors would find themselves sending out a stack of 1099s not just for their subs and vendors but also for mundane purchases such as coffee, office supplies, and even fuel.

No doubt the requirement — had it become a law — would have meant that businesses would have to spend resources on accountants and bookkeepers to adhere to the rule rather than on expanding their operation in a more meaningful way.

Aside from eliminating the 1099 requirements, the new potential law also repeals a component in the Small Business Jobs Act of 2010 that stipulated that as of Jan. 1, 2011, landlords had to submit 1099s to vendors that supplied them with more than $600 of services.

Contractors, remodelers, and other small businesses can continue sending out 1099s as they have been in the past based on the IRS’s reporting procedures.

www.StoreForParts.com

Having choices is essential to business agility

The economy shows signs of picking up momentum, yet unemployment, housing values, and world events remain unsettled. Funding is still elusive for our businesses and our clients, yet banks are reportedly hoarding cash. We are seeing more activity than we have since the fall of 2008 (yes, the double meaning is intended), but will it translate into actual revenue?
Mixed signals and uncertainty create more personal and business stress than times of clear direction. Is it better to hold onto our cash and live to fight another day? Or is it prime time to risk investing to gain market share and get a leg up on our competition? We all have responsibilities — to ourselves, our families, our teams, and our clients — and investing in the wrong areas at the wrong times could spell disaster.

Finding Options

In times like these, having all my chips on one uncertain investment or direction is too risky for my taste. I like options. I want to seize opportunities as they arise, but I also want the flexibility to pull back if those opportunities lose momentum. Think “nimble” — a mouse dancing in the moonlight.
Diversified services. Options come from looking at our business as a “portfolio” balanced to suit our appetite for risk. Large, design-intensive renovations such as additions, kitchens, and master bedroom suites offer great returns in good times, but they dry up quickly when clients are forced to focus on need-based projects and repairs.
To balance this risk, we try to serve our clients regardless of project size. Our smallest project last year was $78; our largest was more than $700,000. We have also balanced our business portfolio by offering services beyond just home remodeling.
Variable costs. Options come from making our costs as scalable as possible. We have blended more independent contractors with in-house labor over the last two years. We are using more temps in the office to fill short-term needs, and we have outsourced more elements of our business, such as payroll, hosting services, and graphic design. Hedging our decisions through investments in variable, rather than fixed, costs allows us to be nimble.
Team effort. Options come from transparent communication with a committed team. My goal is to have the entire team on the lookout, not only for risks and new opportunities but for creative reinvention strategies as well. To achieve that goal, they need the authority to think creatively, which requires knowing where the company is heading and understanding the decisions we make. And they need to be committed — to doing what’s best for the business, to breaking out of traditional boundaries, to wearing multiple hats. Team members need to become “utility players,” adding value in myriad positions.
Every business is affected by forces that it cannot control — competition, the economy, even the weather. Effectively positioning around these externalities, especially in such uncertain times, is a competitive advantage. We are following the path of flexibility through options — a mouse dancing in the moonlight.

http://www.storeforparts.com/



Upgrade Kits

Broan Bath Fan Upgrade Kit

 

Do you have an old, ugly, noisy, worn-out Broan or Nutone bath fan?  Now it's easy to replace the old bath fan with Broan's Model #690 Bath Fan Upgrade Kit.  The upgrade kit will move more air and is quieter than the old model too.

Features

• No re-wiring
• No new duct work
• No hassels
• New motor (60 CFM and 3.0 Sones) reduces sound up to 50%, improves air movement up to 20%, and helps control humidity that causes mold and mildew
• New grille - Upgrade your bathroom's look with a modern white grille (can be painted)
• No special tools are required - kit includes everything you need
• Two motor plates included to fit most economy fans

Broan 690 Upgrade Kit replaces the models below:
If your grille looks like this:		The fan is very likely one of these models:		Housing Dimensions:
		Broan 670, 671, 688, 689 Nautilus N671, N688		7-1/2"x7-1/4" only * 8" x 8-1/4" are not compatible
		NuTone 693, 695, 696N		7-1/2"x7-1/4" or 8"x7-1/4"

Broan 690 Upgrade Kit replaces the models below:
If your grille looks like this:		The fan is very likely one of these models:		Housing Dimensions:
		Broan 670, 671, 688, 689 Nautilus N671, N688		7-1/2"x7-1/4" only * 8" x 8-1/4" are not compatible
		NuTone 693, 695, 696N		7-1/2"x7-1/4" or 8"x7-1/4"

More Information:

• Model: 690
• Manufactured by: Broan

If your trash compactor's motor is working but the machine won't flatten your trash, you could have a broken or stretched drive chain or drive belt. Tightening the belt or replacing it is a snap.

Instructions

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

• Replacement Drive Belt Or Drive Chain
• Nut Driver And Socket
• Screwdriver
• Socket Wrench And Socket

1. Unscrew the compactor from your kitchen counter, using a screwdriver. 
2. Lay the unit on its side and locate the drive chain or belt. It will be under a cover plate on the top or bottom of the machine.
3. Remove the cover plate, using a nut driver and socket. You'll see the drive gear, one or more power screw sprockets, and a drive chain or drive belt.
4. Inspect the chain or belt. If it appears slack, you just need to increase the tension as explained in step 
5.  If it's broken, buy a replacement at an appliance store, then go on to step 6
   
   
   
   Loosen the motor mount bolts, using a socket wrench and socket (see A). Then push the mount toward the power screw sprocket(s). This will make it easier to fit the new chain or belt in place.
   
   
   
   
6. 
   Slip the chain or belt over the sprockets (see B). On trash compactors with two power screws, you may have to unbolt the power screws from the frame and slide them out of the unit a bit to install the chain or belt.
7. Push the motor mount away from the power screw sprocket(s) to increase the tension on the drive chain or belt. Tighten the motor mount bolts and check the tension. You should have no more than 1/2 inch (12 mm) of flex. Loosen the bolts and increase the tension again if necessary.
8. Reinstall the cover plate, and screw the compactor to the counter.

http://www.storeforparts.com/

How to Clean a Range Hood

 

How to Clean a Range Hood Filter

Avoid household fire hazards, and keep your range hood and fan doing what they are supposed to do! Cleaning your range hood is an important part of kitchen cleanup!

Instructions

things you'll need:

• tri-sodium phosphate
• Stiff wire brush
• rubber gloves
• soaking bucket
• cleaning rags

1. Remove the fan filter from the range hood fan. You can also remove any light covers, knobs, etc. that need to be cleaned.
2. Fill a bucket or some other container with enough hot or boiling water to cover the filter (and/or other parts), when placed inside.
3. Put on your rubber gloves and add the recommended amount of tri-sodium phosphate to the water. Mix and place the fan filter in the bucket with the mixture. Let soak for about 1 hour.
4. After soaking, remove the dirt and grease from the filter by scrubbing with a stiff wire or other type of sturdy brush.
5. Prepare additional cleaning solution with the tri-sodium phosphate and water. Use your cleaning rags and the brush to wash the range hood thoroughly. The tri-sodium phosphate will cut the grease and make cleaning a breeze
6. Rinse and dry all cleaned surfaces, and replace the range fan filters and parts.

http://www.storeforparts.com/

How To Replace a Bathroom Grille

In this video clip we will be replacing a bath fan grill. In this bathroom we have a ventilation fan located on the ceiling. Now there's an old 1980's yellow colored grill covering this fan. In addition to it being old and yellow there is a lot of dust and other types of debris that have collected in it over the years. We're going to be replacing this with a new clean grill. Our first step is to pull the grill straight down. It's attached by springs and you'll pull down and you'll be able to pivot it. Next we will need to disconnect our spring. There's a spring on both sides so make sure you take both of those off. After that we need to vacuum out our fan unit. After that we can put our new grill in place and push it straight up. That one looks much better than the old one and it should function a lot better because we did vacuum that out as well.

http://www.storeforparts.com/

How to Repair a Range Hood

HOW TO REPAIR A RANGE HOOD

A range hood that doesn't adequately remove smoke and smells from your kitchen is usually suffering from one of a few common problems: The grease filter or some part of the exhaust ductwork may be clogged, or the fan may be bad. Neither of these repairs should take you much time.

Instructions

Unclogging the exhaust system
1
Remove the grease filter by sliding it out of its clips.

2
Submerge the filter in a plastic pan filled with hot, soapy water and 1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) ammonia. Let it soak for at least 15 minutes. If it's still dirty, soak it again, then rinse it thoroughly and set it aside to dry.

3
Remove the exhaust fan. Unplug the fan, then use a screwdriver or a nut driver and socket to take out the screws that attach it to the hood.

4
Clean the fan blades with an old toothbrush dipped into the ammonia-water mixture (see Warning).

5
Clean the inside of the exhaust ductwork, using a plumber's snake with a heavy rag tied around the end. Push the snake through the ductwork. Soak the rag in the ammonia and water mixture, then run it through the ductwork. Rinse out the rag and repeat the operation until the duct appears to be clean.

6
Clean the exhaust hood that's attached to the outside of your house. Use the old toothbrush and the ammonia-water mixture to loosen the grit and grime around the flapper plate. Make sure the plate moves freely when you're done. If it sticks closed, it can prevent the exhaust hood from working.

7
Reinstall the grease filter.

http://www.storeforparts.com/

Repairing your Bathroom Fan. Easier than you think!

Fix your bath fan without replacing the entire unit and improve air flow with a first class vent system. You can replace a dead motor without tearing out the ceiling and replacing the whole thing. You can also improve venting and prevent roof rot by running the vent through the roof, and not leave it in the attic as was done by many contractors.
Both improvements are easy. This article shows you how.

Replace a dead motor

1 of 3

Photo 1: Remove the grille

Pull the grille down and pinch the springs to release them from the housing. Then vacuum out the dust so you can find the model number.

2 of 3

Photo 2: Remove the motor

Unplug the motor and remove the plate that supports it. The plate will tip out of the housing after you release a tab or remove a retaining screw.

3 of 3

Photo 3: Install the new motor

Pull off the blower wheel and detach the motor by removing screws or nuts. Install the new motor and reattach the blower wheel.

« Previous Photo

« Previous PhotoNext Photo »

If your bathroom fan is dead, here's some good news: You don't have to tear out the entire unit. Even if you fan is decades old, chances are you can get a replacement motor. Although a new motor costs about the same as a new fan, replacement saves time and trouble. You don't have to cut into the ceiling, crawl around your attic or get up on your roof. It usually takes less than an hour.
Your first step is to get the fan's model number. Remove the fan grille (Photo 1) and vacuum away the dust to find the number on a label or stamped on the fan’s housing. But don't order a new motor until you remove the old one. You might need other parts too.
Bath fans vary in design, but motor replacement requires the same basic steps, no matter which brand or model you have. Turn off the power to the fan at the main breaker panel. Then unplug the fan and remove the motor plate (Photo 2). Some motor plates release by pressing or prying on the side of the fan housing. Others are secured with a screw or two.
Before you can remove the motor from the plate, you have to get the blower off the motor's shaft. This is often the toughest part of the whole project. An older metal blower might be fastened with a screw. Plastic blowers usually aren't fastened at all, but simply slide off the shaft. Either way, removal may require some hard prying and pulling. If you wreck the blower while removing it, don't worry. You can order a replacement at little cost. To install the new motor, simply reverse the removal process.

Run duct outside to prevent roof rot

1 of 6

Photo 1: Locate and cut the vent hole

Slice out a 4-1/4 in. circle of shingles centered on the marker screw. Then drill a starter hole for your jigsaw blade and cut out the roof sheathing.

2 of 6

Photo 2: Trim back shingles

Notch out the upper layer of shingles to fit around the vent's hood. Remove any nails that will stop the vent’s flange from slipping under the shingles.

3 of 6

Photo 3: Install rigid duct

Fasten a 6-in. length of duct to the roof sheathing with three screws. Seal around the duct with roof cement.

4 of 6

Photo 4: Set the vent hood

Slide the hood under the shingles. Cement the shingles to the vent's flange. Fasten the lower edge of the flange with roofing nails.

5 of 6

Photo 5: Connect the duct to the fan

Connect the flexible duct to the exhaust port with sheet metal screws. If the port and duct aren't the same size, use an elbow and reducer.

6 of 6

Photo 6: Connect the duct to the vent hood

Slip the insulation over the duct and secure it with a hose clamp. Connect and insulate the upper end of the duct the same way.

« Previous Photo

« Previous PhotoNext Photo »

When there's an attic above the bathroom, some installers take a shortcut: Instead of running the duct through the roof, they end the duct inside the attic. The result is that the fan fills the attic with moist air. That moisture feeds wood rot. In winter, frost forms in the attic and as the frost melts, water can damage the ceilings below.

If you don't have a cap on your roof like the one shown in Photo 2, chances are your bath fan vents into the attic. Running a new duct up through the roof isn't a complex job, but you will have to work in the attic and on the roof. Since you're doing all that work anyway, consider replacing the fan.

An attic can get dangerously hot in summer, so work on a cool day. Wear a dust mask and eye protection. Bring a trouble light and a large scrap of plywood to use as a work platform. Here's how to do the job with only two trips to the attic: On your first trip, measure the exhaust port diameter and pick a spot near the fan where you want the duct to exit the roof. Drive a screw up through the roof so you can find the location from outside. Then head over to http://www.storeforparts.com/ 

Here is what you need.

A roof vent cap.

• Aluminum duct the same size as the flexible duct. You only need about 6 in., so buy the shortest section available and cut it with a metal snips.
• Two 6-in. hose clamps.
• One tube of roofing cement.
• Roofing nails and 1/2-in. sheet metal screws.
• Flexible, insulated duct. Insulation prevents condensation from forming on or inside the duct. Home centers often carry only 4-in. insulated duct. If your fan has a 3-in. port, you can still use 4-in. duct by attaching a 3-in. elbow and a 3 x 4-in. reducer with sheet metal screws as shown in Photo 5.

Install the roof vent cap as shown in Photos 1 – 4. Photos 5 and 6 show how to finish the job in the attic.

http://www.storeforparts.com/